"Ognissanti" and "Giorno dei Morti"
Traditions for Ognissanti
Commemorazione dei defunti: Food
Throughout Italy it is still possible to find gestures and traditional practices for the celebration of these festivals, traditions that inherited pagan ritual, which survived as superstitions or were transformed and adapted to the Christian religion.
In the cities these traditions have almost disappeared, but in the countryside, and especially in southern Italy, they are still alive. In almost all areas, among the most popular traditions is to prepare a banquet, or just leave a tray with food to the dead.
In some regions it was customary to leave one more seat at the table for the dead that they would return to visit. In Val d'Ossola it was common for the whole family, after dinner, to visit the cemetery and leave the house empty so that the dead could come undisturbed. The return to the houses was then announced by the ringing of bells, to let the visitors leave unseen.
In Sardinia, after the visit to the cemetery and a Mass, families went home for dinner, but did not clear the table, leaving everything intact for any visiting spirits during the night. Before dinner, the kids went around knocking on doors, saying, 'Morti, morti...', receiving cakes, nuts and sometimes money.
In Calabria, among Italian-Albanian communities, there used to be a procession to the cemetery, and after blessings and prayers to get in touch with the dead, banquets were held in the very cemetery.
In Puglia, the evening before November 2, it still customary to lay the table for dinner, with bread, wine and water, especially for the dead, who are believed to come back and visit relatives, and stay at least until Christmas or Epiphany.
Pumpkins and questing
In Puglia, at Orsara, on the evening of All Saints it is believed that the souls in Purgatory return to earth, so the Orsaresi decorate the streets of the town with pumpkins ("cocce priatorje"), symbolizing the souls, and lit bonfires of dry branches of broom ("Fuoc acost") to console them. See a video on 1st November at Orsara.
In Sicily there is the custom of preparing gifts and sweets for the children, who are told that gifts are brought by the deceased relatives: parents tell their children that if during the year they were good and recited their prayers for the souls of the dead, these ones will bring them gifts.
In Emilia Romagna in the past, the poor went from house to house asking for "carità di murt", receiving food from people.
In Bormio, Lombardy, on the night of November 2 it was customary to put a pumpkin on the windowsill filled with wine. In Veneto Into the pumpkins were drawn, painted and transformed into lanterns, called "lumere": the candle inside represented the idea of resurrection. Also in Abruzzo pumpkins were decorated, and the kids would go knocking from house to house asking for gifts for the souls of the dead, usually season fruit, dried fruit and sweets.
In Lombardia the "oss de mord" (=bones of the dead) are made in long shapes with dough and almond, baked, with a faint taste of cinnamon. In Comacchio there's the "punghen cmàciàis" (the Comacchio mouse), a cake shaped like a mouse.
Frutta di Martorana
It was traditionally prepared in the Celebrations of the Dead, and owes its name to the Church of Santa Maria dell'Ammiraglio or della Martorana, built in 1143 by George of Antioch, an admiral of Norman King Roger II in the vicinity of the nearby Benedictine monastery founded by the noblewoman Eloisa Martorana in 1194, from which the fruit took its name; it used to nbe prepared also in the monastery of Santa Caterina in the historic center of Palermo, where the nuns still prepared and sold it until the middle of the 20th century.
According to a well-known tradition, the Martorana fruit was born because the nuns of the convent of Martorana, to replace the fruits harvested from the garden on the trees, created new ones with almonds and sugar, to decorate the convent for the visit of a the pope or another important person.
See a video preparation of Frutta Martorana.