From these recipes our lasagna developed over the centuries, helping to create a highly distinctive age-old tradition in Italian culinary folklore. The most common recipe, the "lasagna bolognese", is made using egg pasta, ragù, Parmesan cheese, and bechamel (mozzarella is not used in the classic version). A typical dish of Emilia-Romagna, after the Second World War this lasagna spread throughout Italy and is now well-known throughout the world.
Variations, both in the name and in the recipe, change not only from region to region, but also from a village or family to another. There is green lasagna, with the addition of spinach to pasta, or seasoning based on mushrooms. In the Marche and Umbria in the "vincisgrassi" recipe the ragù can sometimes include chicken liver, sweetbreads, bone marrow, brain, and truffle. In recent times the use of mozzarella began to spread.
In Liguria there is a version with pesto replacing ragù, without béchamel sauce, with sliced boiled potatoes. In Lunigiana, Tuscany, there are the "lasagne bastarde" or "lasagne matte", made by mixing wheat or spelt flour or durum wheat flour with chestnut flour in a variable percentage, from 20% to 60%. In the cuisine of Campania and Sicily béchamel is often replaced with fresh ricotta, and seasonings are enriched with hard-boiled eggs, small meatballs, semi-hard cheeses, vegetables, etc.